Dominica...the last Caribbean gem...
We had a great sail from Terre de Haut, Les Saintes to Portsmouth, Dominica. My what a difference 20 nautical miles makes!
This island is a "wet" island...I think we explained that on last year's blog. With the "trades" (easterly winds) this island sees rain almost every day...rain squalls anyway...not constant rain. It's highest mountain, Morne Diablotins is 4,747 feet, and is usually in the clouds. The island is truly a rainforest tropical "paradise". Banannas...mangos...breadfruit...coconut...dasheen...vanilla...cinnamon...nutmeg...can all be found in PLENTY...and MOST important (ha ha ha)...lemon grass grows wild here...more on that later from our Roseau tour...
So anyway in to Portsmouth and hooking up with Martin on Providence. He is a local man...in the "olden days" they were called "boat boys", because truly back then it was the boys of the island while the dads fished and worked. Here they have developed their business niche around helping tourists...and in Portsmouth ...the cruiser is the most predominant tourist. Last year there were hmmmm...maybe 40 or so boats. This year we have heard there have been up to 95 in the Prince Rupert Bay! Now part of that...is that this year the cruiser's HAD to stop because of the riots...strikes...in Guadaloupe (I now hear that they are over)...and part of it is that the word is getting out about Dominica being the last unspoiled island in the Caribbean...and friendly!!
A sincere and genuine love of people here. A very little bit of the history...the French, the British, slaves, and forts, and battles, and the Carib Indians. This island gained independence from the British in November 1978...and then "hurricane David brought the island to it's knees" in 1979 (this was a quote from Lambert...mentioned below).
Saturday morning is the local market morning...in we went for grapefruits (the best flavored grapefruit I've ever tasted), carrots (these taste sweet...almost like a sweet potato), banana's
lettuce, nutmeg, and dasheen
(this is a potato like root that Paul cooked and was VERY good...consistency...more like glue when mashed).
A local man that had been begging from Paul (while I was in a store) the previous day, saw us bring our dingy up to the downtown shore for the market...
Most cruisers leave their dingys at the dock either at Big Papa's or the Purple Turtle and walk downtown. He helped us ashore, helped pull the dingy up, and then walked around with us.
This view is from the downtown market to the anchorage. Now, while initially he was somewhat of a pest, neither Paul nor I had the heart to tell him to get lost...and then he took the bag from me...oh, what a relief...that thing was sooooo heavy....especially once we got the 12 grapefruits...so we got a picture...
he helped us get Little Bit back out in the water...and we tipped him $10 e.c....$3.85 u.s...
Later we rode our bikes over to the Cabrits National Park entrance
and then walked up
to Fort Shirley.
Beautiful views!
Of Prince Rupert Bay, the anchorage and the town...
I began chatting with three young men that I sort of recognized as on a 28 foot yellow sloop that anchored in front of us the previous night. The three of them are headed back across the "pond" to Sweden on this LITTLE TINY boat! They had it shipped to Trinidad and now are spending time going up the Carribean. Paul was listening to their plans intently and then giving them great places to provision and see! We finished our walk down to the bikes and then rode back to the Purple Turtle,
stopped and Paul had a beer, I a coke...
The Lady H at anchor view from the Purple Turtle and the three young Swedish men's little sloop anchored in front of us....where I must add...
(view of the Purple Turtle from the Lady H) anchored off of the Purple Turtle we were able to get the BEST internet on the boat of the entire Carribean! As we were relaxing, the three Swedish young men (27, 24, and 22 - some sort of medical students - we didn't ask specifics - but they couldn't lollygag - they did have a date when they needed to be back) started rowing their dingy back to their sloop (in the above picture, not in this picture)...
it seems their dingy has a slow leak...
On our way to Big Papa's for some curry chicken (we discovered it last year...and just had to enjoy it again this year) a U.S. flagged boat waved to us and we went over to chat. Wonderful couple with a young son (6 years old) wanted to see if we wanted to go on a local tour. The more people to fill a van...the less expensive...so we said yes! Unfortunately another couple couldn't go because of some intestinal issues on the morning of the tour. We went to Chaudiere Pool,
It is inland a little and on the north east side of the island. Yes, Paul walked (hiked) the whole 2,684 feet...
DOWN...if you look closely there is a trail in the above picture....
crossed the river...climbed over the rocks...swam in the pool....
yes, a refreshing pool. And, Paul is back on the boat...which means he climbed over the rocks, crossed the river, and HIKED UP the 2,684 feet as well.
The only thing we didn't do was jump off the cliff into the 20 foot deep pool!
It was beautiful, and...
just as we were leaving a few local young men came to the pool for their lunch-time refreshment jumps!
We would stop along the way to see the beautiful types of Birds of Paradise...
Along the way a view of the hillside farming...
A bird's eye view of Calibishe...well, okay not a bird...more like a hillside view...
A van ride to Calibishie....
and then to the red rocks...
two places we had seen last year...
but still ever so beautiful!
Monday we sailed the 15 miles or so to Roseau...the southern most (on the west side city)
and the capital of Dominica.
View of the local fishing boats from where the Lady H was on a mooring ball. Tuesday we had a tour with Lambert. By chance...he was a WONDERFUL breath of fresh air and conservatism on the islands! Paul's friend is teasing him that Lambert found out what his political views were and then agreed with them...for tips...but we know the truth!!! How refreshing to meet a man that believes that the government should stay out of people's lives for the most part! He is one of the first black men that we have met whom I will state is not a racist...he does not vote for someone because of the color of their skin...he dislikes Obama on policies...bigger government...more control...take from those who have worked hard - give to the government to dole out... Lambert would never have voted for him just because he is black like so many people did in the U.S. He watches FOX news...listens to Rush and Hannity...how about that!!!!
First stop a view of the city from above. Here we toured areas that are better traveled...by the cruiseship crowds...Trafalgar Falls. There are two waterfalls here...the locals have named...
this one the male....
and this one the female...I'll leave the "whys" up to you...I hiked down the "at your own risk" area to the river below the falls...
where I found some of the water in the river to be warm...then back up the trail.
This cave constantly steams... To Sulphur Springs at Wotten Waven...
and a long bumpy ride
the roads do leave a little to be desired and are VERY steep... to Emerald Pool...
where there was a nice pathway to the pool! I just had to go in and another gentleman (caught up to us from the cruiseship) and I
went under the waterfalls!!!
Very refreshing! As we drove back...we passed miles and miles of Lemon Grass fields...
Lambert told us that the Lemon Grass gets so dry that the fields burn...and then it just comes back...hearty as ever. Back to the boat...
The next morning...diving! Our first dive was in Soufriere Bay...a spot named "Witches Point"...we were told it was where people would go to jump off the cliff to their deaths rather than be captured...it was a wall dive..
we didn't go to the 1500 feet that it dropped to...we went about 78 feet...
vibrant colors...very beautiful wall.
Paul took the little camera
and will be starting to take pictures on our dives.
So here is a picture of me along the wall with the big camera. We are hoping that it helps him relax and breath less. But this dive he ran short on air and returned with the Divemaster.
A young Brit man who has been diving with AlsDive for a few months so he knows the diving areas, (16 years old, parents are moving to the island - technically cannot be a Divemaster because of his age but since I am an Instructor they felt comfortable not having a Divermaster present with me) that was escorting me was running low on air and getting cold, so back to their boat we went as well!
Longjaw Squirrelfish inside a Barrel Sponge.
Giant...Giant Barrel Sponges.... Second dive of the day was called Champagne...
probably after the bubbles that vent here!
White spotted Filefish (orange phase)....This dive too was beautiful...
While Paul had had enough (all the hiking and biking of previous days and then the diving...he was "wooped")...I just had to go on one more two tank dive!! The owner of Al's Dive, Billy and I went out the next morning. We went to Scott's Head Pinacles first. There was a little bit of EVERYTHING on this dive!
From swimming into a VERY strong current
and keeping up with Billy, (I'm so glad that I have my fins)...to diving around the pinacles and the volcano crater where there was no current...to swim throughs with current too strong for me to swim through
(three single pulls with my left hand - glad I wore my gloves...remember the bulky camera was in my right hand)...and DOWN...
to where there was no current...
and then a DRIFT
along a beautiful wall (dropping to thousands of feet) where we could hear whales...whewwwww...that dive was a test...I passed.
Because I had been diving the previous day and Billy had not (and on air...not nitrox...darn) my nitrogen loading was giving me the "low air time" alarm...so I got Billy's attention...he understood...and we went for our 3 minute safety stop. Our second dive was off of Point Guignard...
another beautiful area...and "just" a very relaxing dive.
Lot's of swim throughs (but no current),
a cave, and.....
a Longlure Frogfish!
Now, here is my "note"...Dominica does not allow divers to dive without being escorted by a local dive operator...not something I usually condone (in fact we did not dive in Portsmouth for just that reason)...but here...in the waters off of Roseau...well, perhaps I'll make an exception....
Harlequin Bass....
When I got back to the boat...we had wind...so off we went back up to Portsmouth to meet with our "Brit friends" as Paul calls them who were sailing down to Portsmouth from Guadaloupe. How fun to meet up with them again! After a relaxing Thursday evening...the next morning, Martin came by and invited me to go snorkeling with two other couples over to Douglas Bay and Toucarie Bay...not to be a "scuba snob" of course I went - yes, in my skin - but not because of the "ss" syndrome but because I didn't want to get the back of my shoulders and legs horribly sunburned...then later that afternoon Phil and I went snorkeling from the boat to the pier...he of course got a kick out of my new snorkel fashion look! It was a LONG way and I was a little disappointed in the pier (visability and abundance of fish - or lack thereof)...but
I did find this Red-Spot Comb Jelly on the way back...I had brought the little camera (of course)...so I got a picture of him/her/it...long swim was worth it!!! Saturday night we had our friends over for Fahitias...we were all a bit tired... and we were sailing out Sunday morningish...they were going on a tour Monday...we were promising to meet up with them in Bequia later in the week. So...if a picture is worth a thousand words....this is one very long blog....
Yes, that is me on deck...pulling the preventer...winds a little too light for this heavy boat...12-14 knots...but we were able to get between 5-6 knots from her under full sail.
I was taking pictures of Delphinis, and they were taking pictures of us. J even took a video of the Lady H under sail...she is always one step ahead!!So a bit slower than usual but still ahead of Delphinis, we rounded the turn and went between a rock (starboard) and the island (port)...the charts said we should have 2 feet more than the Lady H's 7 feet draft....well... there was quite a current ripping through...waves breaking to starboard on a reef near the rock (small island)...when we got to .7 feet under us I jumped down to the nav station to see what course in degrees we should be on...yep...the current had taken the us back and to port too far...Paul increased speed on course and whewwwwww...back to enough water!!! P&J saw our little sideways fiasco...and even with only a 6 foot draft decided to go around on the outside! As we went in to Friendship Bay (with a direct view of the Tobago Cays - lots of masts there), P&J radioed that it looked like the anchorage would be very rolly...as they saw our mast tip side to side...and yes, it would have been a rolly night...so quick decision...we turned around and both of us off to Salt Whistle Bay after all!
J went ashore for a walk on the beach,
P & I went snorkeling, and Paul...well...he did some boat chores. 
Happy hour on Delphinis and watching a French charter boat come in to the anchorage AFTER dark...and cause quite a stir...perhaps a few bumps...oh, heavens...evening entertainment again!!!
Beautiful sunrise...then as the charter boats left we were able to re-anchor at the front of the Bay. There are always chores to do...and this day I was not going to have Paul do the chores and then be too tired for a nice snorkel...so off I went in my skin and hood and scrubbed the waterline. It had all sorts of growth and discoloration on just the water-line...and it took a lot of scrubbing!!! I must have been in the water two hours or more!
Then after lunch P, Paul and I went snorkeling off the other point of Salt Whistle Bay.
We found this Ray in fairly shallow water!
Then an enjoyable evening of J's cooking, Paul's garlic bread...and Mexican Train (renamed by P to Snake - leave it to a Brit to need to change the name or pronunciation - Ha ha ha). Discussion of when to leave Mayreau...we wanted to get to Tobago Cays the next morning and enjoy it before the winds picked up.Beautiful Mayreau sunrise. Off we both sailed the next morning...well, motor sailed...well, mostly motored...it was only 2nm to dropping the hook! And, yes, as P had warned us this year there were MOORING BALLS everywhere!!!
Paul was determined that we would not pick one up (they do charge)...and we saw other cruisers anchored here...we went over to a spot out of the way of the charter boats and anchored. My note here is....this is a beautiful Marine Park declared a wildlife preserve by the Government in 1998. The Park includes the island of Mayreau although they do not charge "entry fees" to anchor on the Salt Whistle Bay side. The very small islands of Petit Rameau, Petit Bateau, Baradel, and Jamesby (where we have anchored close to for the last two years) are half-mooned by Horseshoe Reef. 
There is Petit Tabac outside Horseshoe Reef that is seen in the above pictures as well. To have the moorings here for those that do not know how to anchor (what we call our evening entertainment) is a good thing, in fact I believe that all charter boats should have to pick up a mooring...and I don't mind paying the entry fee ($10ec per person per day) if indeed it helps to protect the area...it is very beautiful here...but, it also means that Paul and I don't stay here except one day...we see, we enjoy, and then we move on...that is my note. So, with only one day in the Park...
up J and I went to the top of Jamesby Island for pictures...
then P&J and I took Little Bit over to Baradel to snorkel with the Green turtles.
They were all munching on the grass 
until they had to go up for air and for the most part ignoring us...
so it was fun to get some pictures!
I also came across this Flying Gunard...
After lunch, we all went over to the Horseshoe Reef for snorkeling (diving is not allowed unless you are accompanied by a local dive operator - and Paul and I went last year - one dive on Horseshoe Reef and one the Wreck of Purina). We had heard that there was a current over on the Horseshoe Reef so we took both dingy's and snorkeled from one to the other on the dingy moorings!
Very nice snorkel...although both Paul and I prefer the diving...
and Paul even spotted a Spotted Eagle Ray...J followed him/her and kept track of him while I came over with the camera....
which I then zoomed after with my camera...
I had to zoom after him/her a few times - oh how I like these fins!! I actually got a few good pictures even though the visibility was not the greatest! I have also determined that taking pictures with the new camera snorkeling is much harder than taking pictures while diving. It is so heavy and bounces with every wave!! During the night the wind started and by morning it was pretty choppy in the Park...so P&J decided to follow us to Union after all and not stay in the Park for another night.
It was a motorsail to Clifton, Union,
again, only 2 miles...a VERY DEEP anchorage (well, 35 feet or more where we wanted to be) and contrary to what we had heard up island...the Joyce boat is running...with diesel from Trinidad not Venezuela...so Paul is happy and we will get more fuel before we head out.... 
All around the Clifton anchorage are very shallow reefs. The above is looking from the Clifton anchorage looking over to the Tobago Cays. We were only stopping to get bread since we were out, to call Matt as he had had surgery on his knee, and check out the scuba tank air refill cost. J and I went in to Clifton and walked into the grocery stores...not real well stocked...but J did find some nice tomatoes in a small open air market and we both found some bread and buns. P&J were able to get really good Internet on their boat so they stayed at Union for the night. Paul and I sailed (and then motored) over to an anchorage on the west side of the island - Chattam Bay - an hour away - hook down before four o'clock. 
Here, there were only 7 boats when we arrived. Nice quiet Bay and quiet anchorage. Very steep beach's and nothing on the beaches except a few huts, 
of course that may have to do with the fact that a road was built only a few years ago...not sure what the road looks like as this Bay is surrounded by tall hills - in other words it may not be a road I would want to travel!
Next morning we chatted with a couple from Nova Scotia as they snorkeled by the boat...they said that the visibility was not the greatest...so I decided not to get wet. P&J were going to join us here but called on the radio with transmission issues. Paul gave P a quick fix...but they now will be heading for Prickly Bay, Grenada early Saturday morning to get repairs done. We were planning on a Friday night BBQ on the beach with an entrepreneur...called Shark Attack...he came by the boat and we fixed the price and ordered lobster. He then came by later with them for our approval. We were to go to the beach hut at 7:00pm - got into Little Bit about 6:15pm and headed in. Just as we were thinking about where we should land the dingy on the beach (there is no dingy dock here) three HUGE swells in a row broke on the beach and almost took out one of their boats (because the wind shifted to NE 15-20 the swells curve around into this Bay). With it getting dark...and the swells only suppose to be getting bigger...we thought better of having our lobster dinner and went back to the boat! The owner of Shark Attack appeared around 6:45pm with our dinner - cooked lobster on plates, rice, salad and potatoes!!! He understood with the swell that it was unsafe for us to come in to shore...so he brought dinner to us!! We transferred all the food over to our plates, gave him his plates back, paid him, thanked him for his extra effort and ate dinner!! This way we even have LEFTOVERS!! Very cool...and VERY GOOD! We motored over to Union to meet up with P&J who didn't get out of Clifton on their way to Grenada today...Paul is over helping P now....it is blowing to 30 knots and raining off and on..."Snake" on the boat later this afternoon with P&J then Paul's spaghetti and garlic bread. Tomorrow depends on the weather.....
...there was no internet on the boat and the internet in town was painfully slow as well.
After being spoiled in Dominica...it was a difficult adjustment...moving the boat five times...to get the best signal and then still not being able to get any more than 11Mbps anyway.
P&J sailed in on Friday morning...it was great to catch back up with them. Saturday we went to see a turtle sanctuary on the other side of the island...
it is managed by one man who use to be a diver and has now retired to helping preserve the turtles. There were the green turtles and the hawksbill turtles. Of course I was taking pictures...
and more pictures...
and then a few more pictures!
He was explaining how the island has gotten poorer in natural resources...
the fishermen have "fished out" the resources and whaling is still allowed. The very reason so many have moved here and tourtist's come here is for the beautiful underwater experience..the "nature" experience. It seems the locals by their many years of overuse...abuse... have brought the island to a turning point. It is a nice small island...they have a wonderful bakery with FRESH baked rolls...the market is open every day except Sunday...
of course everything in the market is brought over from St Vincent (a wet island) so everything is more expensive too! There is really not much else on this island noteworthy except for warm weather, it's dry, and it's views. After the turtle sanctuary the driver took us up to the Old Fort up on a hill.
This was one of the two "watchdogs" at the home. There was suppose to be a free movie...but the movie did not show up.
The owner of the place allowed us to walk about his home and rental grounds, beautiful place...
with spectacular views of Petite St Vincent...
and way in the background Mayreau and Union. Sunday P,J, and I went snorkeling over at moon hole
...the rock homes that use to be lived in...pretty much now abandoned...perhaps one or two are being lived it.
Where we snorkeled there was one staghorn coral...some brain coral...almost all of the soft corals were broken and gone from long ago...a variety of fish...but not in abundance...or very large...all very small fish species. No one was up for diving so I couldn't check "below" the visual...which was probably 30 feet or so...