Wednesday, March 18, 2009

A Long Blog written March 17th with lots of pictures

We arrived in Bequia yesterday...a dry island...(passed Martinique (wet island), St Lucia (wet island), and St Vincent (wet island - and not because they were wet islands...Paul has explained in previous blogs). Anyway, Bequia is an overnight from Portsmouth, Dominica, well 26 hours. Rather than anchor in the dark we left around noon and got here around one in the afternoon. We have to make sure that we check in before closing time...or you pay overtime. Just as an example...Dominica - check in and out was $10.00 e.c. Here in Bequia check in was $70.00 e.c. We will check out of Union...not sure how much that will cost! So Bequia is definately a more expensive island! Another example...our 15 grapefruits in Dominica...$2.00 e.c. Here I bought ONE (I wanted to do a "taste test") for $1.00 e.c. and he wanted $2.00 e.c...all their produce comes from St Vincent. This was the first passage sail that I (and then of course Paul) got any sleep on since the Norfolk to Sint Maarten storm. It was a bit bumpy at times...but a very nice sail...anywhere from 5 knots to 9 knots...sometimes motorsailing...depending on the "island shadow". We don't seem to get internet on the boat here so we will be taking the bikes in and riding around the area to hopefully find an internet spot. So that is where we are....below is where we have been!!!
Dominica...the last Caribbean gem...
We had a great sail from Terre de Haut, Les Saintes to Portsmouth, Dominica. My what a difference 20 nautical miles makes!
This island is a "wet" island...I think we explained that on last year's blog. With the "trades" (easterly winds) this island sees rain almost every day...rain squalls anyway...not constant rain. It's highest mountain, Morne Diablotins is 4,747 feet, and is usually in the clouds. The island is truly a rainforest tropical "paradise". Banannas...mangos...breadfruit...coconut...dasheen...vanilla...cinnamon...nutmeg...can all be found in PLENTY...and MOST important (ha ha ha)...lemon grass grows wild here...more on that later from our Roseau tour...
So anyway in to Portsmouth and hooking up with Martin on Providence. He is a local man...in the "olden days" they were called "boat boys", because truly back then it was the boys of the island while the dads fished and worked. Here they have developed their business niche around helping tourists...and in Portsmouth ...the cruiser is the most predominant tourist. Last year there were hmmmm...maybe 40 or so boats. This year we have heard there have been up to 95 in the Prince Rupert Bay! Now part of that...is that this year the cruiser's HAD to stop because of the riots...strikes...in Guadaloupe (I now hear that they are over)...and part of it is that the word is getting out about Dominica being the last unspoiled island in the Caribbean...and friendly!! A sincere and genuine love of people here. A very little bit of the history...the French, the British, slaves, and forts, and battles, and the Carib Indians. This island gained independence from the British in November 1978...and then "hurricane David brought the island to it's knees" in 1979 (this was a quote from Lambert...mentioned below).Saturday morning is the local market morning...in we went for grapefruits (the best flavored grapefruit I've ever tasted), carrots (these taste sweet...almost like a sweet potato), banana's lettuce, nutmeg, and dasheen (this is a potato like root that Paul cooked and was VERY good...consistency...more like glue when mashed). A local man that had been begging from Paul (while I was in a store) the previous day, saw us bring our dingy up to the downtown shore for the market...Most cruisers leave their dingys at the dock either at Big Papa's or the Purple Turtle and walk downtown. He helped us ashore, helped pull the dingy up, and then walked around with us.This view is from the downtown market to the anchorage. Now, while initially he was somewhat of a pest, neither Paul nor I had the heart to tell him to get lost...and then he took the bag from me...oh, what a relief...that thing was sooooo heavy....especially once we got the 12 grapefruits...so we got a picture...he helped us get Little Bit back out in the water...and we tipped him $10 e.c....$3.85 u.s... Later we rode our bikes over to the Cabrits National Park entrance and then walked up to Fort Shirley. Beautiful views!
Of Prince Rupert Bay, the anchorage and the town...
I began chatting with three young men that I sort of recognized as on a 28 foot yellow sloop that anchored in front of us the previous night. The three of them are headed back across the "pond" to Sweden on this LITTLE TINY boat! They had it shipped to Trinidad and now are spending time going up the Carribean. Paul was listening to their plans intently and then giving them great places to provision and see! We finished our walk down to the bikes and then rode back to the Purple Turtle, stopped and Paul had a beer, I a coke...The Lady H at anchor view from the Purple Turtle and the three young Swedish men's little sloop anchored in front of us....where I must add...(view of the Purple Turtle from the Lady H) anchored off of the Purple Turtle we were able to get the BEST internet on the boat of the entire Carribean! As we were relaxing, the three Swedish young men (27, 24, and 22 - some sort of medical students - we didn't ask specifics - but they couldn't lollygag - they did have a date when they needed to be back) started rowing their dingy back to their sloop (in the above picture, not in this picture)...it seems their dingy has a slow leak...
On our way to Big Papa's for some curry chicken (we discovered it last year...and just had to enjoy it again this year) a U.S. flagged boat waved to us and we went over to chat. Wonderful couple with a young son (6 years old) wanted to see if we wanted to go on a local tour. The more people to fill a van...the less expensive...so we said yes! Unfortunately another couple couldn't go because of some intestinal issues on the morning of the tour. We went to Chaudiere Pool,It is inland a little and on the north east side of the island. Yes, Paul walked (hiked) the whole 2,684 feet...DOWN...if you look closely there is a trail in the above picture....crossed the river...climbed over the rocks...swam in the pool....yes, a refreshing pool. And, Paul is back on the boat...which means he climbed over the rocks, crossed the river, and HIKED UP the 2,684 feet as well.The only thing we didn't do was jump off the cliff into the 20 foot deep pool! It was beautiful, and... just as we were leaving a few local young men came to the pool for their lunch-time refreshment jumps! We would stop along the way to see the beautiful types of Birds of Paradise... Along the way a view of the hillside farming...
A bird's eye view of Calibishe...well, okay not a bird...more like a hillside view...
A van ride to Calibishie....and then to the red rocks...two places we had seen last year...but still ever so beautiful!
Monday we sailed the 15 miles or so to Roseau...the southern most (on the west side city) and the capital of Dominica.View of the local fishing boats from where the Lady H was on a mooring ball. Tuesday we had a tour with Lambert. By chance...he was a WONDERFUL breath of fresh air and conservatism on the islands! Paul's friend is teasing him that Lambert found out what his political views were and then agreed with them...for tips...but we know the truth!!! How refreshing to meet a man that believes that the government should stay out of people's lives for the most part! He is one of the first black men that we have met whom I will state is not a racist...he does not vote for someone because of the color of their skin...he dislikes Obama on policies...bigger government...more control...take from those who have worked hard - give to the government to dole out... Lambert would never have voted for him just because he is black like so many people did in the U.S. He watches FOX news...listens to Rush and Hannity...how about that!!!!First stop a view of the city from above. Here we toured areas that are better traveled...by the cruiseship crowds...Trafalgar Falls. There are two waterfalls here...the locals have named... this one the male....and this one the female...I'll leave the "whys" up to you...I hiked down the "at your own risk" area to the river below the falls...where I found some of the water in the river to be warm...then back up the trail.This cave constantly steams... To Sulphur Springs at Wotten Waven...and a long bumpy ride the roads do leave a little to be desired and are VERY steep... to Emerald Pool...where there was a nice pathway to the pool! I just had to go in and another gentleman (caught up to us from the cruiseship) and I went under the waterfalls!!! Very refreshing! As we drove back...we passed miles and miles of Lemon Grass fields...Lambert told us that the Lemon Grass gets so dry that the fields burn...and then it just comes back...hearty as ever. Back to the boat...
The next morning...diving! Our first dive was in Soufriere Bay...a spot named "Witches Point"...we were told it was where people would go to jump off the cliff to their deaths rather than be captured...it was a wall dive..we didn't go to the 1500 feet that it dropped to...we went about 78 feet...vibrant colors...very beautiful wall. Paul took the little camera and will be starting to take pictures on our dives.So here is a picture of me along the wall with the big camera. We are hoping that it helps him relax and breath less. But this dive he ran short on air and returned with the Divemaster. A young Brit man who has been diving with AlsDive for a few months so he knows the diving areas, (16 years old, parents are moving to the island - technically cannot be a Divemaster because of his age but since I am an Instructor they felt comfortable not having a Divermaster present with me) that was escorting me was running low on air and getting cold, so back to their boat we went as well! Longjaw Squirrelfish inside a Barrel Sponge. Giant...Giant Barrel Sponges.... Second dive of the day was called Champagne...probably after the bubbles that vent here!White spotted Filefish (orange phase)....This dive too was beautiful...
While Paul had had enough (all the hiking and biking of previous days and then the diving...he was "wooped")...I just had to go on one more two tank dive!! The owner of Al's Dive, Billy and I went out the next morning. We went to Scott's Head Pinacles first. There was a little bit of EVERYTHING on this dive! From swimming into a VERY strong currentand keeping up with Billy, (I'm so glad that I have my fins)...to diving around the pinacles and the volcano crater where there was no current...to swim throughs with current too strong for me to swim through (three single pulls with my left hand - glad I wore my gloves...remember the bulky camera was in my right hand)...and DOWN...to where there was no current...and then a DRIFT along a beautiful wall (dropping to thousands of feet) where we could hear whales...whewwwww...that dive was a test...I passed. Because I had been diving the previous day and Billy had not (and on air...not nitrox...darn) my nitrogen loading was giving me the "low air time" alarm...so I got Billy's attention...he understood...and we went for our 3 minute safety stop. Our second dive was off of Point Guignard...another beautiful area...and "just" a very relaxing dive. Lot's of swim throughs (but no current), a cave, and..... a Longlure Frogfish! Now, here is my "note"...Dominica does not allow divers to dive without being escorted by a local dive operator...not something I usually condone (in fact we did not dive in Portsmouth for just that reason)...but here...in the waters off of Roseau...well, perhaps I'll make an exception.... Harlequin Bass....
When I got back to the boat...we had wind...so off we went back up to Portsmouth to meet with our "Brit friends" as Paul calls them who were sailing down to Portsmouth from Guadaloupe. How fun to meet up with them again! After a relaxing Thursday evening...the next morning, Martin came by and invited me to go snorkeling with two other couples over to Douglas Bay and Toucarie Bay...not to be a "scuba snob" of course I went - yes, in my skin - but not because of the "ss" syndrome but because I didn't want to get the back of my shoulders and legs horribly sunburned...then later that afternoon Phil and I went snorkeling from the boat to the pier...he of course got a kick out of my new snorkel fashion look! It was a LONG way and I was a little disappointed in the pier (visability and abundance of fish - or lack thereof)...but I did find this Red-Spot Comb Jelly on the way back...I had brought the little camera (of course)...so I got a picture of him/her/it...long swim was worth it!!! Saturday night we had our friends over for Fahitias...we were all a bit tired... and we were sailing out Sunday morningish...they were going on a tour Monday...we were promising to meet up with them in Bequia later in the week. So...if a picture is worth a thousand words....this is one very long blog....

Sunday, March 15, 2009

A step back in time

Sunday Mar 15th 7:52 am Portsmouth Dominica It has been a relaxing and strenous 13 days. Both Joyce and I looked forward to our return to Dominica. We had a nice sail over from the Saints. We were met by our "boat boy" Martin from last year. We unloaded the bikes and made the 2 mile ride to customs to check in. Side note here. When we checked out of Nevis the customs guy prinited out our port clearance, had me sign it and he stamped it. Back in the bag with all the other"Official" papers. I really didn't read it till we were getting ready to go check in here. The damn guy had given me someone elses paperwork...all of a sudden the Lady H was 44' sloop from England. They did not have any guns aboard.and had a crew of 4. In some places these customes guys are drunk with their power over the lowly cruiser. Back to the checkin...by the time we reached the office I was one sweat soaked guy. These guys were fun...we all had a good laugh over my lack of physical conditioning. They never even looked at the port clearnce asked if we were staying longer than 2 weeks no...so they could check us in and out in 1 easy step. 10$ EC about $2.60 USD to check in and out. Now that was refreshing. Remember there are islands I will not go to due to the rudeness of the customs officials.. and yes I am very vocal about that with other cruisers. In fact, the number of islands in the eastern Caribbean that I will go to is making it difficult to plan passages around them. In the 30 yrs I have been sailing down here, there has been so much "change" and none of it good. The last 13 days was like stepping back in time. This is a beautiful island, with proud friendly people. We went on a tour with Martin and a couple off of another boat. We went Chauiere Pool. The was a short hike, 2680 ft of that the vertical drop was probably 900 ft. This was one wooped old fart by the time we arrived and this beautiful spot. After a refreshing swim in the cool clear water we had to make the 2680 ft climb back to the van...DAMN ... On Saturday we went in to the weekly market. seems everything was 2 EC .74 cents. A dozen of the juciest grapefruit, nutmeg..2 EC..would have been 6 US back in the states. We then sailed down to Roseau, the capital and main town. Joyce had arranged a tour and a dive while in Roseau. We were met early by our guide for the day, Lambert. This was one cool dude. There were 4 cruise ships docking as we started the tour. Lambert said we were doing things out of sequence so we could miss the cruise boat crowd. Small talk went to politics. Lambert was the 1st black man we have met on this trip that was not entranced with Obama. His comment was "How could the US elect such a leftest with so little experince" This guy was refreshing ... watches Fox news like Hannity and Rush. Interesting that this guy knows more about US electrorial process and the real issues than 95% ov the voting public back home. He indicated his island was also in the hands of the Labor party.. just like our Democrats back home...in it for the power and the money...screw the common man. He fears his beautiful island will go the way of the rest of the islands. A few interesting facts... Dominica's electrical power is 40 % hydro..Joyce will have the pictures. They could get the rest from geo-thermal from the volcanic activity on the island, but the elected officials are in bed with Hugo. Infact Chevez is sending his poor and homeless to Dominica.. a cultural exchange... he adds his unemployed to the already 30% unemployed rate here on the island, while the politicions line their pockets. Wedensday AM we went diving. Joyce was eager to get going... they had called on the radio and said they would be out to pick us up about 9am. By 10am Joyce was getting antsee, a little after 10:15 they showed up.. I told her they were on "island time" and this was normal in the islands.... we had the same problem on Thur. It was then that we figured that they do not have the daylight saving time change like we do at home...We were 1 hour ahead. Joyce had decided she wanted to dive this special spot on Thur AM... me I stayed back on the boat and recovered from the punishment Joyce had put me through the last week. I will leave the dives to Joyce. Phil and Jonanna were leaving Antigua on Thur and would arrive in Portsmouth Thur PM. We had decided to sail up and meet them ...just 18 miles. They had picked up the computer parts for Joyce's computer and we were eager to get her computer back on line No luck computer still down One good thing...IBM has decided to replace her computer..but we will have to wait till we return to the States. Seems they cannot ship a computer out of the US.... our government does not want the Chineese stealing our computer secrets... damn thing was built and shipped from Hongkong. The wisdom of our government. I have rambled enough...Joyce will fill in the blanks and I'm sure have tons of pictures of this beautiful isalnd. We are ready to lift the hook and do an overnight to Bequia. Why and overnight you ask... well it's to sail past those nasty islands...we will spend what dollars Obama lets us keep where we want to...