Aves...

May 5th 2009 - From Cayo de Agua to Aves de Barlovento and Isla Sur...a day sail. Yes, the bird islands...we were on our way. It was a slow sail...4 knots...8-11 knots of wind. Paul decided we were going to put up the second downwind pole. He had this up for his crossing from France in '03 and has used it another time or two...but I had never put it up. To facilitate we went off course for about 45 minutes while Paul got everything ready...and here it is...back on course we were sailing at 5-6 knots! These guys greeted us about 2 miles out...one jumped what seemed like five feet out of the water! Once around the Casa de luz, Paul tucked us up in the first anchorage. We put Hugo in the water and went up through the mangroves...and just look what we found....birds! The little ones... they really were not THAT little..... would stretch their necks and watch us as our quiet Herby motored us by! Then we wandered over to a little sand island I will not say deserted island...as these guys just love to hang out here...closer to the large reef that protects these Mangrove islands. Only a little closer...the reef is where you can see the waves cresting in the background. The next morning off to Aves de Sotavento...Isla Palmeras and Isla Ramon to be exact. 16 miles. Another downwind run but this time the wind was 18-20 knots! What a grand sail...even with the bottom not clean...we got over 9 knots at times! We so enjoyed the run that we let her run until the first waypoint...then Paul reefed way in to wait for P&J on Delphinus. Beautiful coral and sandy spot in the middle of nowhere...that is what Isla Palmeras and Isla Ramon are... Some fishermen came by and asked if we wanted conch or lobster. We told them that we knew lobster is out of season and that they should stay in the water...they took their penero away. P&J came and picked us up for our exciting dingy trip ashore so that the two guys could pee on whale bones...5 years ago Phil and Paul met a guy that told them about Los Roques and the Aves. He told them of these whale bones...(and Phil was sure it was to bring good luck). I was so hoping to get a picture of two WHITE butts and whale bones...but they were gone. We asked a fisherman...he said they had washed away over the years!! Isla Larga in the background...I walked along this windward coral beach...and I included one picture...well just so you know it is not all "pristine"... while J snorkeled and Paul and P well you can see what they did...Then we went around to another sandy beach where P&J and I snorkeled...while Paul waited at the dingy ashore...well at least P started out snorkeling...then he noticed he could see so clearly out of his mask, something must be wrong!!! Oh heavens!!! I had a great laugh over that one! Then J asked me where are the guys going...I said maybe back to the boat to get P another mask...after a little while we looked again...and here are the two guys relaxing in the adrift dingy drinking beer!!! J&I had a great laugh over that as well!!! Little camera pictures...a must have!! Blade Fire Coral...Palometa....Elkhorn Coral...Massive Starlet Coral...Honeycomb Cowfish... There seems to be a lot of damaged and dead coral here...but for me the exciting thing was that there was healthy coral starting back. I can't help but wonder if the example of Bonaire...well, I just can't help but wonder... The water was just beautiful and I would have loved to dive the reef...but with the winds there was just not even a question...perhaps when I am willing to brave the mosquitos in July or August! Just before P&J were coming over for dinner I noticed a boat with young men in lifejackets heading straight for us. Yes, the Guarda Costa. I had tried to hail them earlier on channel 16 but they did not answer. My...what a difference...very respectful el hefe of the group...only he came aboard...wrote down our information...(and then P&J's as they had come over for dinner) and left!! They NEVER came down below...ONLY had one man aboard...and we NEVER felt threatened by their behavior at any time!! I chatted with the el hefe a little...he is one month here and one month on the mainland...he has one son and is expecting another in August. When the el hefe was almost done I did give them some of the oatmeal raisin cookies that I had baked and we had bought some Coke in two liter bottles to trade with the fishermen for lobster in Isla Blanquilla that we never had the chance to trade so I gave them one of those bottles (I was so VERY happy that they had been professional, that the el hefe had enjoyed speaking espanol with me AND there were not intimidating like in Juan Greigo.) Paul's chili, corn bread and Snake! P&J left to ready for the mornings sail. We went to bed with it blowing 20...I woke up during the night off and on knowing it was blowing more...and finally up at 4:00am with it blowing over 25!