Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Stepping out for about 6 weeks

Tue..Feb 23rd...Well with wallet empty, freezers full of great meat, bilges full or beer, rum and wine...new batteries to keep the meat frozen and the beer cold we are leaving within the hour for the San Blas. Supposed to be what life aboard a cruising sailboat is all about. No phone, no internet, very few people and lots of small uninhabited islands with clear blue water and sandy beaches.. Unless we find the unexpected internet cafe...this will be the last blog for 4-6 weeks....enjoy your world we will enjoy ours....

One of the seven wonders?

And, if you Google the seven wonders of the world...it does come up on a few of the lists...but it seems that there are other newer lists that don't include it and now include the internet! We have been running around Panama City since I completed my travel experience from the Atlantic Caribbean to the Pacific Ocean so I haven't gotten the pictures completed...or the story written for that matter. But for those that want just a little of the story (I promise I will tell the whole story on a later blog, Denny)...The owner and Captain (at the helm) of this... 58 foot beautiful Kadey-Krogen asked me to be crew linehandler for him with three of his friends.
Tom...
Dave (with the ORANGE Chicago Bears shirt) and Roger. Of course I jumped at the chance...and yes, I had a wonderful time! Talk about "queen for a day and a half"...they all were wonderful gentlemen and so very sweet...steak and pork dinner...ham and eggs for breakfast...and of course I took pictures!! So I will write the blog while we are in the San Blas for the next month...and then I will share one of the seven wonders (The Panama Canal) via another of the seven wonders (the internet)when we once again have access!!!

Friday, February 19, 2010

Panama Canal

Yes, THE Panama Canal...Can you guess which of all of these boats (tied up at Shelter Bay Marina) I will be on, this afternoon until tomorrow, going through the canal? By tomorrow afternoon, I will once again be on the Pacific side...albeit only for a short time until Paul picks me up!
Hopefully Paul will blog while I'm gone...on renting a car in Colon and other things (of course I didn't bring my camera)...but, it was an interesting morning!

Monday, February 15, 2010

Now some pictures...

Of our evening passing of Providencia, Colombia...two of our "buddy boats" that ended up about 12 hours behind us...had this island as our destination...Then I decided the seas had calmed enough to put the fishing line out.......the Mahi mahi...smaller than we usually catch...but we were only going 5 knots... Oh, so tasty...and much easier to fillet when the seas are not so rough!! Through the explosives area...yes, that is our "rum line" with the boat to the right of the purple...the purple indicating radar picking up wave activity...and why does he always do this on my watch...can anybody explain that to me?? Ah, the good news...none of the big container ships go through the explosives area...so therefore I don't have to be so watchful for big ships...just not sure what I needed to be watchful for!! We sailed through the parking area for the container ships waiting to go through the canal...up to the red (on the right - out of the picture) and green (on the left - in the picture)! Turning the key on and taking a sharp right to stay out of the Canal shipping lanes but behind the retaining wall....and anchoring at the back of Shelter Bay Marina! Yes, we do have an actual slip now...but marina pictures will be for another day.
The bus is actually quite comfortable (room for 26) and air conditioned to go to the grocery... The bus driver uses an old air field as a road...then through the remains of the Sherman Military Base....To the Canal... over the canal bridges...It seems I am always taking pictures from the bus out the window....Locks...are locks....are locks...are locks...but this IS the Panama Canal......To the grocery store...Rey's is the one the bus take us to...The grocery store is fairly nice... In downtown Colon we have been warned many times that you are not to walk the streets...to always take a cab even if only a few blocks...not sure if this is to keep the cabs in business or not...but so far we have not tested it...The only time I took pictures was from the third floor of the Port Captains office while we were checking in...when I got directions on where to get photocopies from a gal at the bank...she actually came out of the building for me (with an armed guard outside) and told me specifically to go a block around to the left (two blocks out of the way) to another location for the copies...not to the right (which would have been shorter). So I did as she suggested...three different times I had to go get copies...down three flights of stairs...down two blocks and over two blocks...up three flights of stairs...I will say the gentleman that took the copies for me at the bank was absolutely WONDERFUL!!! We are now here legally! I also took pictures out the window of the cab...yes, my opinion too is that Colon is nothing to write home about...yet here I am writing about it...very dirty city...and as you can see in most of the above pictures (except at the park) even the locals don't walk along their own streets!!!

Sunday, February 14, 2010

Colon Free Zone

Sunday Feb 14 2010 4:15 AM Colon Panama
Shelter Bay Marina is the only marina on this side of the canal....the other was "taken over" by the government for a container ship terminal....a preview of the US under Obama...more money from the terminal for the government than a marina. So private business be damned. Here at Shelter Bay Marina there is the most diverse bunch of cruisers, from all over the world...getting their boats ready for the transit of the canal.We decided to do our own check-in with customs rather than spend the 60 bucks and let the marina do the check-in for us.I really wanted to go to the "Free Zone" the 2nd largest in the world. This is a walled city within the sewer called Colon where there are no duty or taxes...but first we had to do the check-in from hell. Joyce met another cruiser on the bus and we shared a cab to another sewer which housed the central customs office ..after 20 minuets we were informed that we had to go to the port captain first...another cab to another sewer ... up 3 floors and wait for 20 mi...now we need copies of our documents...Joyce goes across the street to the bank to get the copies...from the port captain we go next door for our cruising permit...oh yes...need 2 copies of something for the permit...back to the bank for Joyce....from there we have to walk to the Immigration office about 200 yds away within the port area...and yes you need some more copies of your crew list for them....another cruiser made the run to the drug store for our and their copies....we had started at 8:30....it was now almost noon.....interesting thing there was a copy machine in the damn office... what a bureaucratic FU. So we hopped another cab to the Free Zone....saw a McDonalds and had lunch...back to the free Zone...no Panamanians allowed and you need a passport to get in....well all I saw on the inside was Panamanians.....walked a few blocks...like a city within a city....well like a city within a sewer...1 store after another....where is the cheap booze???? Joyce finally went into a store for info.....our shopping list had some boat stuff...provisions and of course cheap booze. You would think there would be a map of the damn place...our info gal had no idea where the "Boat" store was...finally I asked where the booze was...we got our directions and walked to the "store".....like a high end department store. You had to sign in and a few min later a chippie escorts us into the store....We explain our "Watertimes.org" business and start looking at various stuff...cameras....computers...just about anything...nothing was a buy....stuff cost 25-40% more than the states or off the internet...finally we ask...what is a bargain for a US citizen???? only the booze....ok....so we check some prices...about the same as St Thomas ...duty free...great if you want to drink top shelf stuff....but what ever you buy has to be taken back to the boat by some customs guy to make sure you are a "yacht in transit"...cost ..$140 bucks...so unless you are buying a pallet of Bombay gin...no real savings....bummer...my dreams of a full boat of booze and cheap marine supplies was crushed.....seems most of the customers are buyers from South American countries....wholesale....with Cruise ship and airline passengers taking buses into get duty free prices...I could do better on Ebay.....I was bummed....so we caught a cab back to the mall to wait for the bus back to the marina...ran into a couple from a stink pot....also on their way to the San Blas...exchanged a few stories by the time we were back at the Marina...
Guess I better back up a few days...Joyce wants me to tell you all about the shoreline we almost ran into on the sail down...it was Wed am.... ...I was trying to let Joyce get some extra sleep ...about 4 am...past my 3 hr shift change...I had made myself comfortable on the port side of the cockpit.....beautiful night...quarter moon off the port beam....remember...no booze on passages.....the moon looked like there was a eclipse....the dark side was visible ......I had been staring at the the moon for 5 minuets waiting for something to change...... .....all of a sudden we were ghosting along the shore of a tree lined river bank...just like the Tennessee River back in Chattanooga....I jumped up...started the engine....turned off the auto pilot.....turned hard to starboard....put the boat in hard reverse....and attempted to stop the boat from running aground on the shoreline....my heart skipped 20 beats before I realized that the clouds from the approaching squall had gotten the best of my sleep deprived brain...the radar had the squall up against us on the radar....damn....by this time Joyce was wondering what the hell I was doing....so I crashed and she went on watch...so much for her extras
sleep...I tried....
LOL

Saturday, February 13, 2010

Tranquility returns to the Lady H

Saturday Feb 13th 2010 7:34 PM Colon Panama
Interesting sail down form Roatan....the awaited weather window was as happens often was off a bit.....the first 2 days was supposed to be calm with us burning the 3.80 a gallon diesel we picked up at Fantasy Island. Just the opposite..the cold front produced some great winds and by Sunday we were bouncing along at 6-7 knots in very confused seas. Joyce, you must remember after our little encounter with 55 nts last yr is not a fan. Sunday I was going below and missed the handrail....cockpit to hanging locker in 1 step...about 6 ft....jammed my wrist and landed on my back...now she really upset..and worried...well "pissed"....no serious damage other than my pride...hand still swollen but not too much pain...The 1st 3 days of any passage is a bummer....little sleep...up and down till one gets into the routine of watch keeping. Joyce was 2nd guessing my decision of sailing through the shallow bank off the coast of Nicaragua, fearing some rough seas. Our 3 other boats in our small flotilla all made the passage....the 2 slower boats were banged up a bit since they were heading to Providencia...a Colombian island a bit east of our course Lack of sleep and lack of my communication (must have rattled my brain by the fall) kept us with some lively conversations on the second day out (edited by Joyce)...then after we made the turn south for Colon we had a fantastic sail on calm seas in moderate winds at 6-7 knots...we had a 1/2 day motor sailing as the wind shifted to the SSE and then a full blast sail to the breakwater of Colon.By that time "tranquility" had returned to the boat. We were in the grove...caught a small Mahi Mahi...Joyce filleted masterfully so not to waste and ounce of meat. Arrived in Colon by noon on Wednesday....called the marina....no room at the inn...anchor in the back yard...we launched Hugo...oh yea...lost the plug for the floor so he filled up with water.....went ashore to deal with the Marina people.....might be a day or so till we get a slip with some power...really tired of our 3-4 hr genset battery recharge schedule......Joyce on 1 side of the office explaining our problem....me on the other doing the same..they took my AMEX and charged a week for about $350 bucks....we deciced to walk the docks...9 or 10 other Amels in the marina....Ran into Grabrial the dock guy....his people were knocking on our boat....had a slip for us...so back to the boat and into the slip....AC on...yep HOT...both of us were exhausted....simple dinner a few rums....down for the count...We had decided to take the free bus to the supermarket....best way to ge info..get a sim card for the phone .and check out the store...beer cheap...booze...not to bad...meat cuts unrecognizable to me...chicken and hamburg seemed ok...bought a few things and returned....We were able to contact the battery guy....cannot do anything till next Thur...Carnival....wonder if it is like New Orleans...many breast exposed for the male population???? Of course...Joyce want the guys to do the same We hear the whole town closes down for5 days........now it takes 4-5 days to recover from a passage....especially at my ripe old age of 63...we cooked up some mahi mahi and a salad and crashed. So much for our 1st day in Panama

Thursday, February 11, 2010

Life Aboard...ramblings at sea...

Sunrise at Sea on Paul's birthday...February 9th... His 63rd to be exact. He's still asleep. Seas are calm...well...that I guess is a relative term...so I'll go with relatively calm. For my critics...Denny...swells 2-4 feet with slight chop that 8-10 knots will put on the surface, sog 7 knots, motor sailing, pinching 40 degrees off of the wind, mizzen, main, and hanky of jenny up...
Yesterday we both were sitting in the cockpit and I saw a small spider. It obviously was not happy - yes, I say obviously...don't ask me how I know...I just did! I believe it had been displaced from it's chosen home by the salt spray that pinching in higher (than described above) and confused seas would bring (the first 24 - 30 hours of our passage). I watched him for awhile, then pointed him out to Paul and mentioned that I'm not sure if "we" should #1...kill him, or #2...not kill him and we would have a boat spider! Those who know Paul know that a boat cat, boat dog or any sort of other boat pet is out of the question. Paul went on to question if geckos eat spiders. Now looking back I can see how someone might say that our conversation was just plain nuts...but it was the third day our of our passage to Colon with the first 1/2 day and night with VERY ROUGH seas so little to no sleep for either of us...and I guess some needed background information might help of "life aboard". While at the dock up the Rio at Mario's we gained tiny little ants on board. It seemed all the boats had them! It finally got so bad that Paul got some sorbic acid (to intermingle with sugar) that would (we were told) get rid of them. None of this sorbic acid however ever left the bag...it can't work if it is never used! It seemed once off of the dock there were fewer...but they were still around. Then we had to go to the dock in Roatan (battery issues) and my facebook friends might remember me saying that we had a flying unwanted guest aboard and mouse type turds. We later determined it was probably bats and we buttoned the boat up tight every night to keep from having them fly down below. I would still on occasion find the mouse type turds down below so Paul finally suggested we buy a mouse trap. He ended up getting the sticky kind and put two out. Nothing...except one night when he left an m&m on the table...the ants went crazy with enjoyment! When I scolded him the next morning (after all m&m's are far too precious to leave for the ants) he put the m&m in the middle of the sticky mouse trap square and then watched as most of the ants got bogged down in the sticky mixture. I thought at the time that it was like ant torture but I didn't say anything as I did see one get away...(are some ants smarter than others or was it just luck?). We left those sticky things out for three weeks with no further ant action and no mouse action. We did continue to find pesky little turds - only a few down below - most in the cockpit. A few days before we departed Fantasy Island Marina I finally threw the squares away. The first morning of the passage I saw some (what I thought) were fresh turds...one down below and one in the cockpit. This brought another thought to mind that Paul and I discussed (again based on little to no sleep), that perhaps we had a gecko on board!! The thought of a gecko on board was delightful...in fact one of the boats up the Rio paid one of the workers to catch one for him to have aboard! I became hopeful of finding some additional fresh turds. It would also explain why we've been seeing less ants...geckos eat ants, yes? Initially I had thought that seeing less of the ants might be because they don't like rough passages either (both from the Rio to Utila...and now the first two days of this one) and were hiding until it was all over. So...there are some possibilities...another less positive possibility is that the extremely rough seas bounced some turds from their hiding places - so they are not "fresh" just new for us to find....and all these thoughts are somewhat related and bring me back to the spider. #1 or #2. It was the latter...neither one of us got up to kill him. So, if we do have a boat gecko on board...and if they do eat spiders...I saved him dinner. And, if we don't have a gecko on board, we now have a boat spider. I wonder what I should name him/her...time will tell....and do they eat ants?

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Tiempo, Tigo y Tal vez

It finally looks like we will have (maybe) the weather window for our two day sprint (can you call 5 - 6 knots a sprint?) east on Saturday morning. Just looking at a map you might wonder why we have to go so far off of Nicaragua and Costa Rica to sail south. I'll let Paul explain it better later...but I'll sufice to say large shallow reef and potential pirates! While we have been waiting and at the dock at Fantasy Island Marina, I have to admit we have had lots of fun! Mexican train dominios...chicken foot...3/13...and diving!! Hugo at the raftup at the dive site buoy...Lionfish....Lionfish...
Nassau Grouper...I've tried and tried to put this picture correct side up... Queen Conch....for whatever reason this one too...every time I post it correctly...the blogger turns it sideways...oh, well....
Nassau Grouper again...
Some of our cruising dive group...
Wall color...
More wall color...More of our dive group...
Glasseye Snapper...
More wall color. Now back to Tiempo, Tigo and Tal vez...Tiempo - the weather (addressed above before I digressed into diving pictures). To Tigo which is our internet link! Looking at a calendar you might ask why on Wednesday I'm posting the last of my Roatan diving pictures...and announcing our (hopeful) departure on Saturday?! That be all about Tigo! We signed up for one month...and our month is up tomorrow! I wanted to be sure to get the blog updated as much as I could before we left! We certainly will miss the group that we have gotten to know here...when we return in late April most of them will have moved on too! It is something you get use to as a cruiser...that is what sailboats do! Thank heaven in this day of blogging and facebook we will be able to stay somewhat in contact! And lastly, tal vez...this is for you Denny. I'm calling your "etched in jello"...tal vez. That's "maybe" in Espanol...we will be on our way to Panama maybe early on Saturday morning!! We have met a couple on a boat called Dances with Dragons...they are from Texas and we are looking to be buddy boating east and south to Panama with them...as well as catching up with s/v Lady in Red, leaving out of Guanaja. Dances with Dragons is one of your designs, Bob, a Tayana 42. So...until five to seven days from Saturday...