St Lucia

This is the Fruit Man...he motors around the "outside" and the "inside" of Rodney Bay where cruisers are anchored.

We went for happy hour to The Iguana...only way for us to check email...and then I could get more pictures of their colorful boats!
Some of the "inside" houses looked like we were still in Fort Lauderdale!!!
The hill above the "inside" - they are in the process of dredging this part of the bay (lagoon?) where the marina is and making big changes to the marina itself. It will be interesting to see it in a few years... it was great to get the bikes out and ride both days we were here!
South end of the island of St Lucia - The Pietons...
And, now we are somewhat caught up on the blog.... we arrived in Admiralty Bay, Bequia late yesterday (Sunday March 30th)...Paul is signed up to complete his Open Water Scuba Diver Certification starting on Wednesday. I will be going out for a dive... Pictures of town later....

Just Pictures...Roseau Dominica

Downtown Roseau....

I just think their boats are beautiful...well, colorful...I have mentioned to Paul that I think he should have a dingy like these...then neither of us would get wet!!
Waterfront living...from where we were anchored.
Just had to "slip" this one in.....

Don't anchor near this flag

Sat March 29^th 6:55 PM. The War between the US and the Frenchies. US 1 Frenchies O. While I was blogging this AM a Frenchie Cat came up and anchored REAL close. By the time I realized how close they were off in their dink. Now how close is close…well cats and monohulls don’t swing
the same in the wind……

during the day they would swing within 10 ft of us….we probably would not hit unless the wind picked up. BUT there was a whole lagoon to anchor in….they didn’t have to anchor that close. We went in to ride and make out last major provision till Margarita, when we got back the wind had shifted enough to make us swing even closer. They had left 1 Frenchie Bimbo on board. I yelled over that they were too close….she gave me one of those shrugs…I no speak English. By 5 pm I was getting pissed. So I let out some more chain…we swung a little closer….Joyce was playing the UN trying to keep me from throwing wine bottles in their cockpit. The only bottles I had still had wine in them…so that option was out. The rest of the Frenchies arrived back at about 6pm. I hollered over that they were too close…they retreated into the salon…thinking I would move….yea sure….We swung close again…out comes the boat horn…a few honks…they disappear further down below. Finally one of the bimbos comes out to hang something on the lifeline…I asked to speak to the Captain. The little fart comes up and says we are fine…I say too close…he says YOU move…I said I was here first….back into French he goes….Joyce joins in in Spanish…this frustrated him and they all went below. I went up and let another 20 ft of chain….now we are really close…almost time to start drinking wine. I yelled over he was going to move tonight…..we swung close again…just about to go below and break out the wine…….Joyce said she heard the engine start…and then they upped the anchor and moved…to where they should have in the first place……they started to whistle and yell over…was this alright…just like a smart ass…. Once they had shut down and returned to the cockpit…Joyce and I upped the anchor and moved outside to the bay. We had planned to move outside all along….But it was the principal of the thing. This isn’t the 1^st time the Frenchies have done this. This is standard protocol for them. They anchor where they want..and you can move if you don’t like it. Well not this Yankee. If it was not for the US they would be speaking German and eating Sauer kraut. The capital of the world is not Paris. They didn’t invent the Internet or the telephone. Their phone system, their cars, and their attitude suck. They have only three things worth a crap…their cheese, wine, and bread. Hell the Aussies make better wine….and they know how to anchor….

Well the status of our sail repairs….. We had a choice…fix it here or try to make it Bequia. The wind was a little too much for me…..but….we unrolled and pulled the main out….damn…it didn’t come down. To be on the safe side we dropped it all the way down and retied the lines. No Joyce didn’t get her free ride to the top…we are going to leave early tomorrow to make the 12-13 hr sail to Bequia. Screw the French, even sweet and calm Joyce thinks they are “Arrogant and rude" but she didn’t think they were stupid….she might have something there…they did move… She said when you speak to them in a language they don’t understand they quit…they all know English…now let’s think this out…they lost to the Germans, Vietnamese, Spanish….did they ever win a war?

Back on my Soap Box...

Friday Mar 28th 4:15 PM Left at 5:30 AM yesterday to sail down to St Lucia. We were doing alright till the Frenchie Wind Gods from Martinique decided to screw with us. We were in the wind shadow of the island for most of the day. Finally broke down and started the stinkpot….while at it I equalized the batteries. For those who might have joined us since the last time…this is where we cook the batteries with and overcharge that dissolves the sulfate off the plates …the batteries get hot and spew hydrogen gas. I was able to regain 112 amp hours, almost ½ a day’s worth of storage. We arrived at dusk..dropped the hook and started a late happy hr. Joyce had “ice cream” known to most people as a Bushwhacker…me I had a martini…Bombay style….long frustrating day. This morning we dinked in to check in….also fill the propane tank. For sure Hugo is not supplying these guys’ petroleum products. Propane was $36 US to fill…more than twice the US price. We later motored in to get some fuel and anchor on the inside so we can drop the mainsail…more on that later. 16 gallons of diesel cost me $78 US. Almost 5 dollars a gallon. That will buy me 195 gallons in Margarita…DAMN….I am trying to arrive with an empty tank. I have 27 gallons ….should be enough till we get there in 2 weeks. Back to Dominica for a few minutes….we dinked in on Wed to check out.

Tied up at the ferry dock. Checked in and went for a last shopping spree. I had to mail my taxes and a letter to ED. The airmail to the US was .21 cents. The registered letter to the IRS was $5.11 US. And I got a lot better service than from the USPS, No line and very helpful people….just happy to have a job. Let’s move these people up to run out postal service. Down by the ferry dock there is a large area for the local fisherman. We saw the same thing on the other side of the island. A nice protected area to tie their boats…
each fisherman has his own locker like a storage shed. Well seems the Japs have built these 2 areas for free, in turn the Japs get to hunt whales in the Dominican waters where they come every year. For an Island that takes pride in its natural beauty and environment..tell me why???? I wonder which crooked politician sold the populace that bag of crap…how much went in his pocket. Remember my prediction…another Grenada in the making. These poor people are led around by these politicians who have befriended the world’s bad guys for a pocket full of money while their islands are raped and pillaged. OK...Off the soap box. Back to the mainsail….yesterday we noticed that the luff…the front edge was loose. We tried to tighten the halyard…no effect….which means the top of the mainsail is not attached to the halyard. All day I was afraid the sail was going to come down while at sea. I was able to keep tension on the sail and was able to roll it up backwards….so tomorrow or Sunday we will have to drop the sail and make repairs….yes that means Joyce gets a free ride up to the top of the 68 ft mast. Pictures will be taken.

Grenada all over again

Tue Mar 25th 7:33 pm. Capt here....We had an almost pleasant sail down from Plymouth. Before we left we made use of their fresh water. You can fill up with up to 500 gallons of their good water for 15 EC about 5 bucks....we took on 200 gallons...would have cost much more if I had to make it. Besides, its time to change the membranes...another $ 800 job when we get back. The water is getting a little salty...OK for everyday use...drinking is well ..we now have bottled water for that. We arrived in Roseau about 3:30...of course met by the boat boys wanting us to use their mooring for 25EC. We had the computer up top looking for our wireless hot-spot. I had 3 bars...guy says he cannot guarantee that we would be safe here....I tell him if he has Internet there I will use his...well back at the original spot...4 bars on the fast wireless. This AM we dinked ashore...almost downtown and started our search for the American Express office so I could cash a check in UD$ so we can buy our new dink in Margarita. 2 hrs later....mission accomplished.

We did some shopping at the local IGA supermarket...interesting and headed back to the boat.

On the way we said hi to Mike and Sue...the boat we had the Pot Luck last week in Portsmouth. We went ashore at the dive center to get some info....met 5=6 other cruisers using their Internet(they don't have my super duper wireless antenna) It became happy hour. Back at the boat Joyce blogged while I read the local paper. Out of the 4 major headlines 1 was on Hugo's visit and how he is sending his poor up from Venezuela to live here and how he is moving his oil and airport people up here to help out. The other 2 were about the Chinese and their 4th anniversary of being here and an open letter to the people of Dominica from the Chinese.. Many of the foodstuffs were Chinese...I thought I should start taking pictures of the beaches so Mat's Marine buddies would have some good Intel when they have to come down and kick the Chinks and Hugo out.. Laugh...just wait and see.

Matt, this was the only guns I saw....looked nce but was filled with concrete.

These people want it the easy way...free aid with no accountability. We won't but the Chinks and Hugo will.....Well off the soapbox. Graboid is working overtime to D/L Joyce's Grey's Anatomy and my NCIS. More later

Leaving Portsmouth

Both Paul and I rode our bike's to the Cabrit's Dive shop on Sunday morning. While he began his studies...I bought three identification books...Reef Coral; Reef Fish; and, Reef Creatures. Beautiful pictures and with them I have already started to have fun identifying what we have been seeing!! Then I rode out to the "edge" of town....well...I didn't want to go DOWN this hill...I knew I would have to ride back up it!


Then I rode past where they have their fishing boats....

And, more of their water/beach front homes....

Through town.....
More of the main street of town.....
Rain water running to the sea....it rains here EVERY day - but at least it is warm so I'm not complaining (too much).



To the beach where the dingy dock was....


The restaurant where the dingy dock is and where Paul and I celebrated his Scuba Dive certification...chicken curry was wonderful....

And sailing away...with Fort Shirley between the two hills...

Old Fart learns new tricks

Mon Mar 25th 8:31 AM Well I did it. For the last month or so Joyce has strongly suggested I get certified so we could dive together Last Friday I did a discovery dive. They give you 30 min instruction then throw you over the side with the dive master for this 25 min dive.

Capt at 40 Feet

Yesterday I spent Easter AM cracking the books up at the dive center doing my knowledge section(got a 99 on the test) and yesterday PM went for another dive with the dive master and now I'm a certified Scuba Diver...I still have some more dives to do along with more book work to get my open water certification, but this is too cool. Once you dive, you never look at the sea the same way. Snorkeling is like looking at a 3"x5" photo...being down there is breathtaking....hmmm get that breathtaking...one of the 1st rules ...always breath, never hold your breath... We went ashore and ate local curry and jerk shrimp..once back at the boat I opened one of my Christmas presents from Joyce ...my Pyrat Rum....and toasted my achievement.



Chris my instructor said I was not an Old Fart. He taught a couple that were in their 80's last month.. Well getting ready to leave here and head south.

Diving Dominica

So after the Dominica tour we have been having fresh squeezed grapefruit juice every morning, REAL lemon grass tea, and Paul has put some cinnamon leaves in one of his rum bottles...we'll see how THAT tastes!!! I on the other hand have not been brave enough to have any more of the seaweed/cinnamon/milk drink that this one lady at a roadside stand made for me. Nor have I had any more of this...well I'm not sure what it was...we got it at the old woman's house that our driver Paul took us to...

On to the DIVE!!! AND...Guess who decided to join me at the bottom of the ocean??? Yes, below is a picture of Paul...taking a "discovery" course. And, yes, he hopes to get his scuba diver certification tomorrow and the Open Water diver certification down island, where the visability is better. I was with another dive group and did get some good pictures of coral and such.....but since I had the camera he did not get to take the picture of the turtle and the snake that he saw....

This cute little guy....some kind of a Parrotfish...not sure exactly which type.... New book says Redband Parrotfish!!!

Huge coral....

A Bluehead Wrasse dwarfed by brain coral.....
This guy's eyes are so cute...don't you just want to take him home?? Not sure what he is though... I had to chase a few fish just to get their pictures. These are pretty much everywhere....they are called Sergeant Major's....

Still haven't figured this one out...some kind of Hogfish...but the first I have seen. Got a new book....he is a Whitespotted Filefish!!!
A Bi-color Dameslfish and the most beautiful purple coral....
A trumpetfish.....

Coral colors....

A Reef or Spotfin Butterflyfish...New book says...Longsnout Butterflyfish!!!
More beautiful coral....
And, another first...a Rock Beauty...with another little guy wanting to take the spotlight...
A Blue Chromis.....

There were smaller Black Durgon that I chased around trying to get a good picture...never did (see below)...now I feel so lucky to have gotten the pictue I did at the wreck of the Rhone and shared with you earlier on the blog!!!

And, if you made it all the way down to here...this picture is from the main street of Portsmouth looking towards the bay. Quite a contrast from the picture at Les Saintes?

Picture tour of Dominica

Good Friday Mar 21 5:05 PM

Yes it is Happy Hour...and we did not have one drink last night.....more on that later......Neighbors coming over soon. Well yesterday Joyce spent the big bucks for an Island tour. As I mentioned before other than bananas...the beauty of the island is their only income. Martin our Boat Boy (really the business manager and owner of the tour group) picked us up at 8am and took us ashore to meet Paul our tour guide and driver. This was going to be an all day affair. We started off up the best road we would see for the rest of the day. 20 min later after our ears had popped we stopped at the 1st of many overlooks. Here we are looking back over the bay where Plymouth is located. The anchorage is at about 9 o'clock by the flowers.







Here Joyce is practicing being a professional photographer.



As we continued to climb the road got narrower...and the number and size of the pot holes grew. What we know as a guard rail has not been invented here yet....notice the upper left....yep we are going up there....

Paul our guide was a real botanist...he pointed out every plant and fauna. This is vanilla. Vanilla itself cannot grow without a host tree. The vine here is the vanilla plant

Next stop was a "COLD" Volcano. Here in the States when we go to Yellowstone...the geysers and bubbling pools are hot and stinky. Well here the water is cold and stinky. It was quite a hike for the Capt.

There is no flat and level to be found anywhere...so they grow everything on the side of the hill or mountain...They clear and burn off an area...farm that for a few years then move to another area.

If you look closely you can see 2 farmers working their "field". This was taken with the telephoto...about a mile across the valley. Notice the huge leaves to their left...those are bananas plants

These are something called deheen...a starchy plant like a potato. Notice the bananas on the ridge. They put blue plastic bags over the bunches of bananas. The chief bananas checker comes along and ties a colored ribbon to each bag. They announce "We are cutting the red strings this week"

Wild along the side of the road are these flowers...very tropical
More and more and more and more bananas...there is no hunger on this island...as long as you are not allergic to bananas or coconut.

We stopped for lunch at a seaside town called Calibishe. The projects in Baltimore make these look like 5th Ave. The pier at 9 o'clock was ocean front a few yrs back.

Take away the palm trees and blue water, the west coast of the Island looks like the Oregon coast.

A view of the deck at lunch

This is Red Rock...a red lava flow ....seen from the lunch deck.

After lunch we drove over to this red lava flow that runs into the ocean...I have seen many flows...but never in red.

Seems the Island elders have the same problems with their teens...this is the local party and "do it" place visited by the island teens.. Notice the rum and beer bottles.

This is the black and white sand beach...Paul (our guide) made comment to why the black and white sands don't mix. Interesting

We went past the "Airport". Hugo is funding that...throwing his oil money around. As I stated before the Chinese are building roads and bridges....Hmmmmm now why would they want to do that??? I see another Grenada in the making. Hate to see Matt down here in a few yrs with his Marine buddies.Here we have the poorest of islands where the people hold their crooked politicians in awe, kissing up the our enemies. We visited 1 home in Paul's home village. We were invited in ..given some local drinks...of course they were trying to sell us stuff...very nice but there were pictures of the local politicians on the wall. I can see me walking into Cindy and Ed's home back in Chattanooga only to see a picture of the mayor and other crooked politicians on the wall. Don't think so. If you have read Michener's Caribbean you will better understand these peoples fate.

Home sweet home!!!
Yes some one lives here...notice the electric meter..........
Freshly painted...usually 1 or 2 adults sitting around the home. Unemployment is 23 %. Among the 15 -24 it's 33%.

These are some of the nicer homes.

This is your local Sear Automotive Center

This is downtown Calibishie on our way back to Plymouth. Streets were filled with adult males and females....who was at work???

We then went off road to where 1 of the rivers meet the sea. Here is a cashew nut bush...damn out of season. On the way down we saw the locals collecting coconuts, wacking off the husks. Even little kids got into the act. These are cracked open then dried over a fire and sold as copra. Sold to someone who then extracts the coconut oil. This where the fresh water meets the sea...notice all the coconuts on the beach.

This black sand beach is one of the few on the windward east coast.

At the base of the coconut palm on the right, someone has made a pile of coconuts. Left there they have sprouted and there are 10-15 new trees growing. This was a coconut forrest....thousands of old and new trees.

Another pile that has sprouted new growth.

The day was an eye opening experience. The beauty and the poverty all rolled into one. Their willingness to work hard to scratch out a living was demonstrated as we passed through the farming areas. All the work that goes into the bananas and other crops. 1 whole bunch of bananas ...a blue bags is worth about 12-14 US$ A banana tree only produces one bunch. That tree is then cut down and another will grow up from the roots. The whole cycle take up to 1 yr depending on the soil and conditions. Those on flat soil (not much of that) turn around faster. On the way back we stopped at a cinnamon tree. Paul whacked off some bark and got some leaves. Too cool. The leaves are now in a bottle of rum.... Earlier in the day he cut some lemon grass. Very pungent...Joyce is now making lemon grass tea ....wants to get rid of our commercial lemon grass tea and get more of this stuff...I would like to cook with the stuff.

Now to why we did not have happy hour last night....this AM this old fart went diving. Why should Joyce have all the fun....was down 40 ft or so for about 1/2 hr...think I might go for certification.....